Dr. Dan in Meiringen with the John Doubleday statue of the Master |
Following
the footsteps of Sherlock Holmes and
Dr. Watson is not always easy, especially when it takes you off the printed
page, out of the easy chair, and up the side of a mountain in Switzerland.
My Sherlockian
friend Steve Winter and I, along with our supportive spouses, crossed the Atlantic to visit the Reichenbach Falls
(after a six-day pizza and pasta prelude in Italy) on October 12 and 13, 2008.
In booking our hotel and train reservations months before, we didn’t realize
that the Falls and the funicular taking visitors up the mountain would be shut
down for the season starting on October 5. Not least for that reason, our
pilgrimage to the site of Holmes’s fatal encounter with Professor Moriarty was
an unforgettable adventure.
We arrived in early afternoon at Meiringen, the Swiss
town at the foot of the Falls where Holmes and Watson had stayed. The clerk at
our hotel, the beautiful and ultra-modern Victorian, assured us that the
funicular and the Falls were both still running. Our excitement mounted. This
was not what we had been told in an e-mail two weeks before by Rudolf
Soltermann of EWR Energie AG / Reichenbachfall-Bahn. He had informed us, to our
disappointment, “The cable car is closed from October 5th till
spring and from mid October the Reichenbachfalls have no water.” He did add the
hopeful note, “In autumn, when it’s not raining, it’s still good for
hiking.”
Immediately after lunch at our hotel (our first order
of business in town – hamburgers for four) we realized that we were right across
the street from both the bronze statue of Sherlock
Holmes smoking meditatively in a seated position and the Sherlock
Holmes Museum. The statue was created by John Doubleday and erected in 1988. A
plaque next to it, proclaiming SHERLOCK HOLMES HONORARY CITIZEN OF MEIRINGEN,
informed us that the artwork included clues to all sixty Sherlock
Holmes stories. Among the four of us, we identified . . . none. We couldn’t even find the clues.
Barb Winter popped into the Sherlock
Holmes Museum and came back with a report. “I have the news, and it’s not
good,” she said. In fact, the Falls and the funicular were not running.
Oddly, it had turned out that the man in charge of the funicular knew more
about it than the clerk at our hotel.
No matter. Steve Winter, a man who habitually travels
with a backpack and a Swiss army knife, wanted to hike the mountain up to the
site of the non-running Falls immediately. It wasn’t raining, and apparently
Steve’s energy levels were undiminished by an adventurous morning that had included
the theft of a purse in Italy
and the loss and recovery of a carry-on bag in Switzerland.
Barb further learned, however, that the Sherlock Holmes Museum
would be closed the next day, a Monday. Since we were only going to be in
Meiringen slightly more than 24 hours, we decided we would have to put off
hiking for a day in order to visit the Museum.
No true Sherlockian
would find it coincidental, still less inappropriate, that the museum is
located in a former English church. This was, after all, a kind of shrine. The
upstairs of the building is given over to art exhibitions, the bottom to Sherlockiana. The museum is delightful but rather
small, highlighted by a painstaking reconstruction of the hallowed sitting room
at 221 B Baker Street.
It is behind glass, like the one at the Sherlock
Holmes Pub in London,
but claims to be the most authentic reproduction of the Baker Street lair in that everything is
authentically Victorian, no reproductions. We bought a few Sherlockian souvenirs, but I was surprised how few
were available. Barb suspected this
was a factor of being at the end of the season.
The museum is owned by the adjacent Park du Sauvage
Hotel, widely recognized – and proudly proclaimed by the hotel itself – to be
the original of the Englischer Hof where Holmes and Watson stayed in “The Final
Problem.” In fact, the Park du Sauvage proclaims in English right in front:
IN THIS HOTEL, CALLED BY SIR ARTHUR
CONAN DOYLE THE
ENGLISCHER HOF
MR. SHERLOCK HOLMES AND DR. WATSON
SPENT THE NIGHT OF 3RD/ 4TH MAY 1891.
IT WAS FROM HERE THAT MR. HOLMES LEFT
FOR THE FATAL ENCOUNTER AT THE
REICHENBACH FALLS WITH PROFESSOR
MORIARTY, THE NAPOLEON OF CRIME.
Clearly, Meiringen makes no mystery of the Holmes
connection. This is a town where one can also buy Sherlock
Holmes fondue and drink at a pub (or perhaps it’s a private club) called simply
“Sherlock” in bright red letters
with a London street sign on the side of the building. Our attempt to dine at
the Park du Sauvage, however, was stymied by a policy that their dining room is
open for guests only, although there is a separate restaurant on the grounds.
We had dinner that night instead at Das Hotel Sherlock
Holmes, marked on all sides by a wonderful silhouette of the great man’s head
and an artistic lettering in which the “l” of “Hotel” is also the “l” of “Sherlock” in the line below. The meals, and the
Swiss beer, were quite good. For dessert there was meringue, topped by whipped
cream and ice cream. Meringue was invented at Meiringen, and they do it very
well.
After dinner, we strolled and window shopped our way
back toward our hotel. Swiss army knives apparently are widely available in Switzerland.
Who knew? I also spotted some German-language Sherlock
Holmes books in the window of a bookstore, one of which I was able to buy the
next day at the last minute before boarding our train. We wound up inside the
Park du Savauge, intending just to gawk. Instead, we bought more souvenirs,
mostly for friends. The very nice clerk asked where we were from. “Cincinnati!” he
exclaimed. “Every year I am going to Cincinnati!”
He explained that he had a friend there who formerly lived on Clifton Avenue –
the very street on which reside our friends the Senters, for whom we were
buying a Sherlockian keychain! The
world gets smaller all the time.
“Anybody can go to the Falls when it’s running,” Barb said the next day at breakfast. I took her
point. It would be quite a distinction to travel several thousand miles to see
where the Falls weren’t. We were bracing ourselves for the task with a hearty
breakfast. We had an impressive array of choices in whatever quantity we chose
– cereals, yogurts, pastries, Nutella, cheese, salami, juice and varieties of
coffee.
The plan after breakfast was for Steve and me to hike
to the site of the Falls, with Barb and
Ann accompanying us part of the way before they peeled off to concentrate on
the arduous task of shopping. This was a prospect I faced with some misgivings
– the hiking, I mean, although I had misgiving about the shopping, too. My
concern was based in part on reading Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s autobiography, Memories
and Adventures. In one of the most well known passages of that book, Sir
Arthur wrote of determining to end the life of his hero in order to devote more
time to what he mistakenly considered his more serious work:
The idea was in my mind when I went with my wife for a
short holiday in Switzerland,
in the course of which we saw there the wonderful falls of Reichenbach,
a terrible place and one that I thought would make a worthy tomb for poor Sherlock, even if I buried my banking account along
with him. So there I laid him, fully determined that he should stay there – as
indeed for some years he did.
The death and resurrection of Sherlock
Holmes set a pattern followed in succeeding years by an astonishing number of
heroic figures in popular culture. Father Brown, Lord Peter Wimsey, Nero Wolfe,
and Superman all in some sense died or disappeared only to return to the living
unscathed. In films, such disparate characters as the indestructible James Bond
and the incompetent Inspector Clousseau survived their own funerals. The major
difference in the case of the greatest of them all is that even his creator was
surprised by the return of Sherlock
Holmes.
And no wonder. No one who saw the Reichenbach at the
peak of its might would readily imagine that a person – even Holmes! – could
fall into that and re-emerge alive. Bear in mind, however, that the closest I
have come to seeing the Reichenbach at the peak of its might was on DVD. Two weeks
before our departure for Europe, I watched
again the Jeremy Brett interpretation of “The Final Problem.” I had two strong
reactions to watching the fatal encounter of Holmes and Moriarty above the
Falls: That looks scary was quickly
followed by Are we really going to go
there?
We really went there.
But on that fall morning, off in the distance from a
point close to our hotel, the Falls looked more like the Reichenbach Trickle
than the awesome force of nature described by Watson and showed to us by Granada
Television. No matter. We set off with determination on the Fussweg, or
footpath, well marked (at least at first) with signs bearing the universally
recognized image of Sherlock Holmes.
Along the way our wives fell back and Steve and I hiked on past cows, goats,
and Swiss chalets with satellite dishes. Without the funicular “Zum
Reichenbachfall,” which marked “100 Jahre” in 1999, we had a delightful sense
that we were walking more closely in the footsteps of Holmes and Watson than if
we had taken the cable car much of the way up.
About two-thirds toward the top of the mountain,
within site of the Falls, we unexpectedly came across yet another plaque. In
English, followed by German and then French, it said:
AT THIS FEARFUL PLACE,
SHERLOCK HOLMES
VANQUISHED PROFESSOR
MORIARTY ON 4 MAY 1891
It
had been erected in the 1990s by the Bimetallic Question of Montreal and the
Reichenbach Irregulars of Switzerland, and not arbitrarily. The spot certainly
fit the description of where Holmes and Moriarty tussled, just above a ledge
now protected with a metal railing. Heights not being my favorite thing, it was
to me indeed a “fearful place.” Even the
intrepid Steve told me later that he could imagine the fear and awe that one
would have felt looking down into the chasm when the Falls were cascading over
the jutting rocks at full force – especially in the days before funiculars,
safety rails and well marked trails.
By this time, it was clear that the view from below
had been deceiving. In October, virtually shut off by the diversion of water in
order to provide hydroelectric power, the mighty Reichenbach is still a lot
more than a trickle. In another context, with lower expectations, it would be
considered a respectable waterfall. “The Falls, even now, are quite loud,” I
wrote in my travel diary as we stood on a bridge overlooking the great chasm
and the cascading water. And their roar was the only sound to be heard in the
stillness of nature that fall morning. Steve and I had seen no one else, except
for a distant hiker that never came close to us. “This really was a pilgrimage
for two,” Steve said as we began our descent about two and a half hours after
we had started up.
A pilgrimage it certainly was. For all the major world
religions – Jewish, Christian, Muslim, Buddhist and Hindu – the pilgrimage is
an ancient and meaningful practice for believers. It’s easy for me to see why.
Actually going to a sacred or important place, sometimes in the face of
inconvenience or even difficulties, is much different from experiencing it
second-hand. That’s why people go to rock concerts, baseball games, political
rallies and papal Masses when they could see the event much better on
television or streaming video. It’s why we made the somewhat convoluted trip to
the Reichenbach Falls. And having been there, I will
never read “The Final Problem” quite the same way again.
Thank you for this literate account of a visit to the Falls. I'll be in Meiringen in December for skiing. Probably won't attempt the climb to the Falls, but I certainly will visit the museum!
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